Italy and the Amalfi Coast

I guess this one needs no notation.. its Coraleen at Pompei1 and to the right is Coraleen with a view of Positano in the background.



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Below is me in the Gardens where Gina Lollibrigida and Humphrey Bogart made the 1953 film Beat the Devil.

Above is Coraleen with the Olive and Lemon groves in the background on our walk back from Ravello down to Amalfi which took over an hour and at all times we were in 45 degree heat and full sun.

Above is me of course.. one with the view from Sorrento main street looking down towards the Port.. a mere 400+ steps and to the right a view over Positano and the beach with all the beach umbrellas and sunshades set out and almost full.

Above left is Coraleen and I with Amalfi in the background.. the same day as our walk from Amalfi in 45+ degree heat anb above is our little house in Sorrento. It was in the campground but beautiful all the same.

And to the left.. the infamous Blue Grotto and the water is really this blue and the hole is really that small.. even smaller when a wave hits.

Pompeii was first on the list.. and guess what? It hasn't changed since the last time I was here in 2005.. but I guess if it hasn't changed since 600AD it was hardly surprising.

Yesterday we caught the bus from Sorrento to Positano and that was so beautiful.. again hasn't changed much since 2005 although they have done some definite improvements on the Port with a whole additional concrete area available for passengers.

The bus took about an hour and for those who don't know its one helluva road. Hairpin bends, cars and busses backing up to let others through and general chaos, definitely one I wouldn't be driving on myself. We sauntered around Positano in 35 degree heat absolutely melting so after lunch decided to pay for a bed and umbrella and lay on the beach. Euro14 for two sunbeds.. daylight robbery is what I call it. Our trip home was so much better on the ferry. We opted for the water rather than the road and just out of Positano the Captain announced how hpy it was and he was putting down anchor for those who wanted a swim.. honest he did and on a regular service too!! He promised there were no sharks.. and I for one can confirm the water was as warm as a bath and there were no sharks. Once back on board he turned up the Italian music and it was just like a charter boat.. cruising along the mediteranean admiring the huge rugged cliffs jutting out of the sea like gargantum creatures from a sci fi movie.. amazing does not justify the peaceful scenery and beautiful music.. and thats without the 35 degree temperatures and beautiful sun. The trip took about 1.5 hours and was just .. well out of this world.. and it was a Euro7 boat ride "home". My partner in crime, aka known as Coraleen, decided it wasn't for her.. too hot and too boring as she isn't really a boat person and the road was better... .. hence the second day we came home via the road.

Now the road is a whole nother story. The Amalfi Coast road is infamous for its hairpin bends, traffic jams and crazy Italian drivers! I couldn't count the number of times either our bus driver or another driver had to reverse to allow the bus to pass. All along the 50 odd kms there were people on duty (I am sure they weren't traffic police.. but they were there) holding up traffic one way or the other to allow bigger vehicles to pass. We spoke to an American couple in Amalfi who said on their tour they had to come early as the road was too dangerous later in the day. Anyway that life threatening journey took about an hour in almost 40 degree heat.

While in Amalfi we took the bus up to Ravello.. an amazing small village right on the top of the Cliffs with amazing views. The 1953 movie (yes, I know most of you weren't even thought of then) Beat The Devil with Gina Lollabridida and Humphrey Bogart was filmed here. We then took the scenic route down.. walking.. I kid you not!! 8 kms in 38 degree heat.. but we didn't quite get the scenic route and ended up walking the last couple of kms on the road and yes you guessed it.. some crazy Italian driver came so close to me he actually hit me. I am totally unscathed although my TVNZ backback took a bit of knock!!

Capri was wonderful .. I enjoyed it when I was there in 2005 but this time the weather was better and we managed to go out to the Blue Grotto which is a 'small' cave in a rock just off the coast line. You buy your tickets at the port and go out in smallish motorboats carrying about 12 (they would not be allowed at home due to OSH regulations... mind you one could say that about most things in Italy!) and then transfer into little rowing boats. You have to sit right down low in the boat while a man rows you into the cave.. he too has to duck right down just to get in. The water is so blue its hard to imagine and it stays blue even though are right inside the dar cave.. amazing! The washing in of the waves totally covers the entrance at times but even in complete darkness the water stays a beautiful bright blue.

Travelling from there to AnaCapri with the crowds.. and believe me there were hundreds an hundreds of people.. like the Auckland Santa Parade... someone said 60,000 visitors a day flow into Capri and I could believe it. Given the 40 degree temperatures today we soon opted for a beach and found ourselves at the other side of the Island at Faro Beach. Now I use the term 'beach' very loosley.. it was more of a swimming hole. There was no sand.. no beach.. just rocks meeting the water however the water was tepid and once again hundreds of people with their towels spread on the only piece of flat concrete. Children were jumping in off rocks while I chose the swimming pool type steps.. yes at some stage someone had actually had the nouse to build a few things.. like a bar and restaurant.. poured a slap of concrete down and fixed in some steps.

Waiting an hour for the damn bus back to the Port for the boat home we got chatting to some very nice English people (yes there really are some!) who asked us to join them for a few drinks in the Foreigners Club that night for drinks. It was our first night out in ages and really nice to talk to someone, other than each other, who speak English.

Wednesday afternoon was spent in a Bar with English Sky TV watching NZ winning the 3rd Race of the Americas Cup.. the very best way to enjoy success I must confess. It was so bloody hot I had to ask for ice for my red wine as it was almost burning my mouth.. that is the honest truth!! In saying that they don't actually keep wine, red or white, in the fridge but at 'room' temperature on the bar so perhaps the ice wasn't too balmy after all.

Alas our week on the Amalfi Coast ended and we are now off to Sicily driving South through Calabria and Basilcata before catching a ferry in San Giovanni for Messina in Sicily... and the temperatures are still rising!! I am definitely having a few wines tonight as it's my driving day and negotiating Molly from Sorrento out around the Bay of Naples, through the outskirts of Naples and out onto the Southern autostrada is rather overwhelming.

And one more bit of useless information.. we were reading in the English Daily Mail today there is a heatwave over here.. apparently in Romania its 40 degrees plus with Athens expected to reach 40 over the next day or so.. while here its a mild 38! In the photos I have hair stuck to my face and head.. sweat running down my face.. but the scenery is amazing so they are staying!