Our 6 day Walk from Levanto to PortoVenere - The Cinque Terra

Somehow these photos have got out of order..slightly.. This is on the first day our walk from Levanto (which is outside the offical Cinque Terra National Park) to Monterosso, and incidentally the second hardest of the 4 main walks we did. We left Levanto full of zest and vigour to walk steadily uphill. This lookout tower was on the way
And at the top of the hill was this gorgeous view looking back to Levanto.
At 10.30 we stopped for a wine or two.. no only one!! Knowing what was ahead of us! Some Americans who had also stopped were very impressed at our early time for wine tasting but on explaining to them it was 8.30pm in NZ they forgave us our indiscretion.
6 of us in Levanto at the beginning of the trail.. Barry being the one taking the photo.

Levanto itself, or the name Levanto most likely goes back to the period before the romantic Era; it’s ancient name was Ceula, which appears on a document from the 11th century. It's present name means this town is at "levanter" to Genova. Until 1140 it was Malaspina's Feud, and then Da Passano's. In 1211 it spontanously joined the Republic of Genova, and remained an independant town from 1247 to 1797 living of maritime trade. Thanks to its geographical position, Levanto, was able to develop quite easily and move on especially after the 2nd W.W.

Along the way at one of the viewing points...

and further along the trail almost into Monterosso .. Coraleen and Barry

Barry and I on the second day of the walk from Monterosso to Vernazza looking down on Vernazza
Wendy and Bruce taking advantage of the gorgeous views over Vernazza..almost there
Krisitne and Rauly doing the same

and this was the terrain. They are actually vineyards. As you can see land is of an essence and by retaining the hilly slopes they make the most of the available space

Me at night admiring the sunset in Vernazza. Vernazza itself is set into the side of a hill and is one of the most beautiful sights within the Cinque Terra although the town itself has few hotels or restaurants.

Vernazza has a natural pier with a amphitheatre shape making it perhaps the most picturesque village of the Cinque Terre. Vernazza was a Roman installation and had a big strategical importance during the age of the Maritime Republics in Genoa. It was also famous for its carpenters.
Another one from Monterosso to Vernazza
All glammed up for dinner at Monterosso.. well sort off.. I guess the Crocs take away the glam factor!!

And I bunked off the next day so no pics from Vernazza to Riomaggiore which was according to the others the easiest walking day and one of the most picturesqe taking in the small villages of both Corniglia and Manarola.

Dinner on the last day of the walk at PortoVenere which is also outside the Cinque Terra National Park but nevertheless was one of the most beautiful towns of all.

One of those silly things you just have to get on camera. At one of the cafes along the way they had these apologies for goats!!
This is one of the little trains they use to transport both people and grapes up and down the hilly terrain. We just couldnt resist having a wee play.
The jungle gym in the forest... along the way there were some additional challenges..as if the 5 hours wasn't enough.. well for some of us it obviously wasn't!! Barry tried the balancing irons .. see no hands!!
Coraleen giving the chain ladder a thrashing

Taking a breather at the top of yet another incline... just to admire the view of course
It's all downhill from here folks... Yeehaa
And thats what we are heading for... The village site used to be a temple to Venus Erycina, from which the name Portovenere is derived. It was a maritime centre even then, and has been involved in many conflicts through the ages. The longest was the war between Genoa and Pisa (1119-1290). The castle that overlooks Portovenere from a rocky elevation above the village was an important defense tool during that war.

Portovenere is a beautiful village on the Gulf of Poets. Portovenere's harbour is lined with brightly coloured houses, narrow medieval streets lead up the hill to a castle, and the tip of the promontory holds a picturesque church.

Looking over to La Spezia from one of the high points... still 2.5 hour to go to PortoVenere.
Fish for dinner anyone??? Someone staying in the Hotel had caught this and the hotel Chef was about to make it even better.

The photos say most of it really. Starting in Levanto and walking through to PortoVenere is only 26km but rising to altitudes of ?? not sure but bloody high when you are walking up there I can tell you!!

All the towns were beautiful. Some had more to offer than others in sightseeing and tourism.

One of the nicest Restaurants we went to was in Monterosso which was set inside the rock face on the side of the cliff.

The night we stayed in Levanto we opted for antipasta to start.. start I ask you? After 20 courses of THE most amazing antipasta dishes you could imagine only a few of us could even consider desert. This meal would have to be one of the best meals of the whole trip!!

Sadly the day of walking I missed was apparently one of the most pictuesque.. hard to imagine after some of these pictures but I had to go into La Spezia and sort out my phone (still no money on my Italian sim after loosing my other one) and also organise to transmit the money to the School in Rome. Unfortunately paying money (CASH if you please) into accounts in Italy is not easy and I didnt end up doing it.. another long story I won't bore you with although I did finally manage it in Lucca after two hour long trips to the bank!!

Saturday afternoon was spent enjoying a few g & t's in front of the Television in the hotel watching the All Blacks. Another difficult task getting the TV onto the Rugby. The Italians couldn't understand why on earth we would want to watch Rugby when there was European soccer on!! Some people's mentality I ask you:-)

Nice and Monaco

Beautiful old Church at top of hill in Nice.
View looking out over the beach in Nice from the highest point.

Another one looking out at the view over Nice Beach and surrounds. Nice is really one of these places everybody has heard of or has seen in television and cinema. James Bond was here of course and the most of the rich and beautiful, the jet set, from the fifties through the sixties and seventies. Some say it is not the hottest spot anymore but many stars have bought houses and villas along the coast ('French Riviera' is one of the most beautiful coast lines in Europe).

Nice beach with the City behind it and as France's second biggest city its bigger than you think.

Monaco and Kristine and Coraleen outside the Palace with the paradign guard in the background. The guardian of a centuries-old tradition, this uniquely located Palace was built on the site of a fortress built by the Genoese in 1215. A visit takes one on a journey through history from the time of the Guelfes and the Gibelins to the Napoleonic period. The outstanding features of the Palace that can be admired such as the Italian-style Gallery running alongside the South facade; the State Apartments; and the sumptuous frescoes by XVI century Genoese artists, the Louis XV Salon, the Salon Bleu, the Throne Room, containing a large Renaissance fireplace, where historic festivals and ceremonies have been held since the XVI century.

Rauly imitating Sterling Moss
and me being a copy cat!!
Outside Monte Carlo and The Bently
On the steps about to go into the Casino and loose 30 Euros.. but it was worth it go inside.

Monte-Carlo, created in 1866, named in honor of Prince Charles III, hosts an internationally famous Casino, luxury hotels and leisure facilities, some created recently: Larvotto beach, the Monte Carlo Sporting Club, the Boulingrins Gardens. Monte Carlo is a district of the Principality of Monaco.

I had spent the night with Barbara and Jason and Barbara's family (again!) in Nice. Barbaras parents had Bella for the day while we were at the Rugby, we then drove through to Grasse and in the morning I caught the Train from Grasse to Nice where I caught up with Coraleen, Barry,Kristine and Rauly. As we only had one day here we tried to pack as much in as possible walking around Nice, the flower markets, the beach up a spiral walkway to its highest peak before heading off to Monaco.

A few hours in Nice isnt enough to see 'Nice' but it gives you a good overview. The weather was great, the flower market was just closing although we had dinner here and it was just divine. There are so many museums and art galleries if you were that way inclined but for me it was the drive around the Riviera to Monaco.

The sheer opulence of Monaco is mind blowing. I definitely couldn't stay there - mainly because I couldn't afford to eat but it was an amazing place to visit. Driving in along the road Grace Kelly was killed on was an event in itself with a sheer drop below and all through Monaco there are little notices with pictures of her opening this or christening that; very patriotic I must say.

Lonely Planet aptly describes Monaco....There's no getting around it. The Principality of Monaco is all about money - making it, spending it and flaunting it. A short stroll along the harbour, where some of the world's most expensive and most luxurious yachts are moored will have your eyes popping out of their sockets at the shameless, unadulterated wealth on display.

The Monte Carlo Casino was just something else. You could stand outside there all day and just admire the glitz and glamour. I had my picture taken beside a Bently and a Ferrari although I had a choice of about 20 cars all worth hundreds of thousands of Euros. Of course Vicki being Vicki just had to go inside the Casino and donate some money... and even though Ididn't win I can say 'been there done that!'

Onwards and upwards... a drive to Levanto and the Cinque Terra in the morning....

Marseilles and THE GAME

The HAKA... very emotional..well its emotional at home and even more so on the other side of the world.
Both teams on the field
Bella in her All Black gear. For those of you who don't know Bella she is Barbara's daughter.
Believe it or not that is Barbara and Jason in the crowd. They had the cheapest tickets and were in the first row behind the goal post.. the All Blacks end for the first half and despite their being 58,612 people I could actually see her.
Us lot after the game enjoying a beer or two....


I can't say too much about the game that you all dont know already.

I spent the night before with Barbara, Jason and their family and had a lovely night in a beautiful 17thC Villa high up in the hills near Benet.

The drive to Marseilles was 'fun' with a couple of wrong turns, most of the small villages we passed through had market days and then the traffic in Marseilles. Just say we got there before the Haka started even if it was only a millisecond before. And Imust take my hat of to Jason for his wonderful parking efforts!!!! (I guess you had to be there!) But we didnt get towed and we saw the Haka!

Provence... the Ardeche Gorge, Luberon and Aix En Provence

The 'big' Rugby poster in Aix En Provence

The Rotunda fountain. Its construction in 1860 marks a turning point; not only are its dimensions exceptional for this city but it is also the first to have a fonted basin. Three statues: Justice, Agriculture and Fine Arts adorn the fountain and recall the main activities of this town. In effect the fountain was a symbolic mark of the entry to the modern town, without rampart nor gate, open to the world. Aix has grown now and today the "great Fountain" is at the centre of the town. Aix En was built and developed on two identies, water and art. A lot of the paintings and sculptures and city sights are related to both. There are a total of 40 public fountains in this smallish village..... you can tell I am a pushover tourist :-)
Situated in the heart of the Mazarin quarter, this fountain dates from 1667. By the sculptor Jean-Claude Rambot, it flows into a circular basin of Sainte Baume stone. With its four dolphins and their raised flippers on a bed of waves which support the obelisk, it is an example of the baroque art so prized by the Aixoise nobility. Just another medieval Church up a narrow street on the Cezanne walk in Aix En.

The Ardeche Gorge.. and an old stone barn on a vineyard which went for miles and miles.. couldn't resist the picture
And inside the Church... they are all so beautiful inside.. we just dont have churches like this in New Zealand.
The fort in the historic centre of St Montan on the main Ardeche Gorge road north.
Not sure this was the effect I was looking for but its the view at night from my hotel window. You could see the clocktower from the ancient tower very clearly although the trees which were covering the bottom half of the window haven't done much for the effect.
The water is hundreds of feet below.. another picture that didnt quite get the desired effect.

This one is a bit better.. see the river below and the mountains above.. just amazing scenery.
The natural bridge over the river. This was not man made but has just evolved in the rocks over time.
Signs signs signs.. I liked this one basically its advising you to lock your car when you get out for the amazing views
The clocktower in the Ancient town during the day. You can tell its the same one in the night picture and the medieval town in the background all in St Montan.
Another part of the old town in St Montan.

It was time to leave Avignon and drive back to pick up Molly from the Dr's.. and fixed she was although we were very lucky. Just as we pulled off the motorway at Orange and into the VW Dealers the linkages went again but luck was on our side this time and we coasted some of the way around the intersection and discovered we had 3rd and 4th gear for the next 200metres. All was well, we picked her up and drove off on more adventures.

Next stop was up to Vaucluse, Facon to be exact and pick up Barry from his cycling adventure and then drove west to the Ardeche Gorge. This gorge was just amazing with a natural bridge over the river which has evolved over years. A very unspoilt area visited mainly by the more athletic or adventurous of travellers as its full of kyakers and bikers as the terrain is rugged.

The Adesche Gorge and the town of St Montan not sure why we chose that town but it did have two Patisseries, four bars, several restaurants, a medieval town with a fortress AND a very cheap hotel!

It all started several millions of years ago. The spirited river Ardèche cuts tirelessly through the limestone, opening an immense gorge, a veritable canyon. The pause in this masterpiece, the famous natural arch of the Pont d'Arc, 66 meters high, triumphal entrance to the gorges classed Natural Reserve since 1980. A geological perfection that already our ancestors in the Paleolithic age admired.

The Luberon area of Provence is pretty much in keeping with the traditional terrain of tuscany and while beautiful was nothing out of the ordinary. Isn't it terrible when after 4 months of travelling this type of beauty fails to impress as it did in the early days.

Aix En Provence was our last port of call in Provence and the home of Cezanne. We walked in the footsteps of Cezanne (well it was hard not to as they imprinted in brass along most of the streets) and we even saw some big Rugby World Cup posters... oh yes that reminds me.. the first All Black game is in Marseilles in 2 days time.